Finding your perfect watch can be a difficult challenge; where do you start? Here at Owen & Robinson we have created a simple guide to help with your decision. If you have any further questions feel free to ask in store or get in touch via:
A self-winding mechanical watch has a sophisticated mechanism that rewinds the barrel spring with energy resulting partly from the movements of the wearer's wrist. The efficiency of the self-winding process is therefore directly linked to the motion of the arm on which the watch is worn. When fully wound, your watch has an operating independence of 40-60 hours depending on the model. The stored power reserve enables the watch to run throughout the night and retain a comfortable margin of independence. However, if your automatic watch has been left unused for several days it will inevitably stop. Before using it again we suggest you winding manually with about twenty clockwise turns to the crown that it will operate perfectly. Correspondingly, a watch left unused needs its time and date displays to be reset and rewound by about twenty turns of the crown before being put on the wrist.
HAND-WOUND MECHANICAL WATCH
Certain models are equipped with hand-wound mechanical movements. This type of watch is wound everyday by turning the winding crown until it reaches a stop. Once the mainspring is fully wound, do not force the crown any further since there is a rish of seriously damaging the movement. The independence of a hand-wound mechanical movement is approximately 40 hours, varying from each watch brand. After this point, the watch will function for the amount of time indicated in its technical specifications. We suggest you wind your watch every morning before placing it on your wrist.
Note: If your hand-wound watch, or a piece driven by an automatic mechanical calibre, is not worn for several months we advise you to protect it efficiently by keeping it in a safe, clean and dry place. In addition, always remove the watch from your wrist before winding it. This ensures the crown stem remains fully straight during winding and avoids the risk of damaging the crown or movement.
Some watch brands equip their watches with a quartz movement. The time and date are set in the classic way by means of the winding crown. The service life of the battery ranges from 2-4 years depending on the model. The majority of quartz watches with a central seconds hand are fitted with an end-of-battery-life indicator (EOL). Approximately 2 weeks before the battery is exhausted, the central seconds hand starts to advance in 4 second jumps, indicating that the battery must be changed. You should never leave an exhausted battery inside the watch because as it becomes degraded it may damage the movement.
To ensure your timepiece runs correctly and gives years of enjoyment, we strongly recommend that you read the information below:
TEMPERATURE: Try not to expose your watch to extreme temperatures (above 60ºC/140ºF, or below 0ºC/32ºF). This exposure can diminish the service life of the movement, thus affecting the viscosity of the lubricants used in the movement. Both mechanical and quartz watches are sensitive to severe changes in temperature. Try to avoid them as much as possible.
VIBRATIONS: We endorse not wearing your watch when partaking in sports activities such as Football, Tennis or Golf in order to protect it from vibrations that could damage the movement and reduce its lifespan.
CHEMICAL BASED PRODUCTS: Avoid as far as possible any direct contact with products such as Perfumes or domestic detergents. They may harm the seals and modify the appearance of bracelets and cases.
MAGNETS: Keeping your watch near electronic devices that can produce magnetic fields that will affect its performance. The effect on a quartz watch will only be for a short time. However, mechanical watches (manual or automatic) are a lot more sensitive to magnetic fields due the vast amounts of moving parts. Watches are designed to withstand magnetic fields encountered throughout day to day life, but some strong fields can magnetize steel components of the movement, particularly the balance spring. In rare cases, magnetized parts may stick together and cause the watch to run fast or even stop. In some cases, demagnetization must be carried out by the Manufacture.
WATER-RESISTANCE: The water-resistance of a watch ensures the movement is safe from dust, moisture and any deterioration when fully submerged in water. The natural aging of the seals, wear and tear (in the case of hand-wound models) or accidental impacts to the crown, may lead to a substantial deterioration in water-resistance. This is why we endorse a water-resistance check about every 12 months, preferably before a summer vacation.
Note: When a watch is submerged in water, under no circumstances should you pull out the winding crown or press the push buttons to change the date or start the chronograph, this could allow water to enter the case and damage the movement. If you notice condensation forming in the watch (particularly under the crystal), you should quickly contact your seller or a dedicated service center to remove the condensation and re-insure the water-resistance of the watch.
SCREWED-DOWN CROWN: This crown protects your watch from humidity and prevents water from entering the case, it is critical to fully screw down the crown. Be sure to avoid forcing it at the bottom in order to preserve the seals.
STANDARD CROWN: The standard push down crown is most popular within the lower end brands, do ensure the water-resistance of your watch by pushing the crown back against the case.
STEEL BRACELET: A metal bracelet does not require specific maintenance, apart from an occasional light polishing. Use a soft brush, such as a soft toothbrush, to remove any dust or residue that has been left on the Bracelet.
LEATHER STRAP: The lifespan of a leather strap depends on how often it is worn and under what conditions. To ensure good condition for as long as possible, you should avoid contact with water, greasy or acidic substances or cosmetics. Likewise, avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight or UV rays that may affect its colour. We advise against using leather maintenance products to clean or polish a leather watch strap. In summer, a leather strap is more exposed to external friction and we recommend you replace it with a rubber strap for the duration of summer or a metal bracelet suited to the model of your watch, if available.
NOTE: If you wish to change a strap or bracelet, we advise you to return to us. If it is not performed correctly, then this could result in unsightly scratches or damage to the strap.
RUBBER STRAPS: The lifespan of a rubber strap depends on the conditions and frequency of its use. To maintain it in good condition for as long as possible, we recommend you avoid contact with greasy or acidic substances, and also with cosmetics. Similarly, avoid lengthy exposure to heat or to UV rays. UV rays in particular may affect the very nature of the material. A natural rubber strap can be kept in good condition simply by using soapy water then rinsing with fresh water.
Try not to expose your watch to extreme temperatures (above 60ºC/140ºF, or below 0ºC/32ºF). This exposure can diminish the service life of the movement, thus affecting the viscosity of the lubricants used in the movement. Both mechanical and quartz watches are sensitive to severe changes in temperature. Try to avoid them as much as possible.
This crown protects your watch from humidity and prevents water from entering the case, it is critical to fully screw down the crown. Be sure to avoid forcing it at the bottom in order to preserve the seals.